Our entire family loves markets of all kinds, supermarkets, weekend markets, flea markets, farmers markets, craft markets, etc. We love browsing and occasionally buying. We were happy to be in Johannesburg on a Sunday because the best markets always take place on the weekend.
We headed to Rosebank Sunday Market, a well-known craft, food and flea market in downtown Joburg. It has an unusual location on the top floor of a shopping mall car park. The location was cold and drafty, but it did not dappen the warmth, enthusiasm and creativity of the local vendors comprised of artisans, craftspeople, home chefs and locals with something to sell.
We arrived around lunchtime, so we immediately headed to the food section. There was a diverse array of delicious home-cooked food showcasing the diversity of the people of South Africa. South Africa, India, Pakistan, Thailand, China, Indonesia, Lebanon, Sir Lanka and many more countries were represented by their cuisines. AY and EY immediately headed to the Indian stall for their corn and cheese samosas. Leo and RY found their way to the local-style grill and stewed meat corner where RY chose the grilled chicken wings. Leo went for two local cuts – the beef shin and oxtail, both were stewed and served over rice. DY asked for the fried rice from the Thai stall and after walking back and forth several times, I eventually ordered the chicken curry and roti from the Indian stall. We washed it all down with some refreshing drinks – mango ice, guava ice and lemon mint.
After lunch, it was time to browse around. The front of the market is dedicated to local artisans and craftspeople. The back of the market is more of an antique flea market where locals can bring items that they wish to sell.
Some highlights from the market include a man with Rastafarian braids piled high on top of his head who was sitting on a low stool crocheting shoes out of nylon thread. He welcomed us into his bare-bones stall and invited us to try on a pair of shoes. The shoes had a commercially made sole, which he bought, and the rest of the shoes were crocheted entirely by hand.
He had only a limited inventory because he was just starting out so I tried on the pair that I thought would fit. They were too small, but I could see how the right size would hug the feet just so and would be very comfortable. The man pointed down to his own feet and told us he was wearing the first pair of shoes that he ever made and has been wearing them for 3 years already, meaning that the shoes were durable.
As we chatted with the friendly man, we found out more about him. He started this business a few years ago because he was trying to come up with an idea of something he could sell as a source of income. He knew how to crochet and got the idea to make shoes. He sourced the rubber soles and tried out different materials of thread to make the shoe body. He settled on nylon because it comes in a variety of vibrant colors, is stretchable, washable and durable. Through trial and error, he continues to improve his craft and is constantly trying to come up with new ideas.
AY wanted to buy a pair of his shoes but he wasn’t making children’s sizes yet because he hasn’t found a source for rubber soles in children’s sizes. We talked about different design ideas that might appeal to children. As we chatted, he even offered to teach me how to make the shoes. Since I don’t know how to crochet, he said that it could take more than a week to learn. I was flattered that he thought I would be a good student. “Anybody can learn,” he said.
I wish I could have bought a pair of shoes, but he didn’t have my size. It’s not that I particularly love the shoes, though they are fetching, but I do love his spirit and his story.
Close to the entrance of the market, a pottery stall had caught my eye when we first entered. The table was full of pottery hand-painted with African wildlife and flowers. Everywhere we go, I always enjoy looking at local ceramics. Pottery has been one of my life-long interests, something that has captivated me since I took my first pottery class in my 20’s. Throughout my 20s and 30s, I continued to learn and practice making pottery. It is my hope to pick up this hobby again when I have more time.
Pottery is one of the oldest human inventions and can be found in most civilizations dating back to neolithic times. Apart from functional uses of pots and vessels in cooking, holding water and storing food, pottery is an art form. The process of creating pottery can most simply be separated into two parts – creating the pot/vessel and decorating/painting it. In cultures that are highly specialized in ceramics, these two steps can be completely separated with a “potter” responsible for the first and a “painter” responsible for the second.
I identify more closely with the “potter”. I love the idea that a functional and beautiful vessel can be made out of clay, a natural and plentiful material, found just about anywhere near a lake, river, stream or other body of water. Not much is needed to make the transformation from a shapeless mass to a perfectly formed bowl, besides two hands, a few simple tools and a heat source. The finished product can be simple or elaborate, plain or beautiful, strong yet fragile.
The delicately decorated pottery on the table were painted by the two brothers who owned the stall. The design that caught my eye was a set adorned with black and white spotted guinea fowl feathers. There were many pieces that I wished to buy but this would require making another package to ship to the US. We decided the hassle was worth it and we picked out 6 bowls, the insides painted with six different African animals and the outside painted with African birds. We also decided on a large bowl with the guinea fowl feather motif that originally caught my eye.
It would have been easy to spend the whole day inside the Rosebank Sunday Market and we had to exercise restraint to not leave with a truck load of purchases. If we are to buy souvenirs, we make every effort to support the local artists and artisans who rely on their creativity and resourcefulness to make a living. In this way, we hold not just a trinket but a unique piece that embodies the spirit and hopes of these individuals.
Beautiful potteries