There are two ways to reach the fort – by car or by climbing the 999 stairs to the top. Climbing the stairs seemed like a good way to get some exercise and enjoy the views on the way up. It was a little tricky finding the starting point to begin the ascent. It also happened to be market day and the area surrounding the fortress was bustling with vendors selling fresh fruit and veggies, baked items, local specialties, olives and many other delicious looking food. We struggled to navigate our huge van through the narrow roads jam-packed with cars and people. Our car even spontaneously stalled just as we were trying to make a U-turn and blocked traffic for a few minutes. The locals were incredibly patient as Leo tried to restart the car, sweat collecting on his brow.
The weather couldn’t have been better. It was sunny but cool and the air was fresh. It didn’t take us long to climb to the fortress. Although we didn’t count the steps, we read that there aren’t actually 999 steps. There are only around 911 stairs, depending on where you start counting from. The climb was absolutely worth it as we were rewarded with stunning views over the Argolic Gulf and into the Aegean Sea in one direction and spectacular city views of Nafplio in the other.
On this day, EY was our family’s best climber up the 900 plus stairs. Since the beginning of our trip when she struggled through our first hike in Nairobi in the Karura Forest, her endurance has improved dramatically and her little legs have been getting noticeably stronger. She didn’t need to stop for a break during the entire way up. She continued to put one foot in front of the other with quiet determination. I heard her talking to herself a few times, whispering “You got this.” Indeed, my littlest one, you do.
We reached the top and were drawn to the Greek flag flying proudly atop the main bastion, Agios Andreas Bastion. The Paladmidi fortress was built by the Venetians during the second period of Venetian rule, from 1711 to 1714. The Venetians and the Turkish took turns controlling Nafplio from the 14th to the 19th century. The first period of Venetian rule lasted from 1388 to 1540. The Turks invaded and made Nafplio the capital of Peloponnese. The Venetians took over again in 1686 but lost again to the Turks in 1715, who stayed until 1822 when Nafplio was liberated by the Greeks, besides a brief period of Russian control in 1770. The fortress is considered a masterpiece of military architecture, designed around eight bastions that could operate and defend the fort independently if any one of the bastions was breached.
The fort was the setting for the liberation of Nafplio from the Turks, which is an important part of the local culture. The Greek troops, led by Staikos Staikopoulos, managed to storm in and seize the fort from the Turks in just one night. The stealthy attack caused the Turks to surrender without a fight.
Different parts of the fort were used as a prison during different times. The Miltiadis and Agios Andreas bastions were both converted and used to house criminals in the mid-19th century and into the 20th century. We explored the fort with barely anybody else around.
Then we raced down the stairs and through the Land Gate which at the time it was built in 1708, was the only entrance to the city by land. The figure at the top of the gate, that was damaged and has since deteriorated, is the winged lion of St. Mark, the symbol of the Republic of Venice. The gate was destroyed sometime in the late 19th century. The gate as we see it today is a reconstruction completed in 1998, based on its original appearance.
We headed to Old Town Nafplio for lunch and a look around. Old Town Nafplio is charming and quaint. The architecture is the merging of its complicated history with a combination of Byzantine, Ottoman, Venetian and neoclassical elements that blend into a beautiful mosaic of shops, restaurants, places of worship and public monuments. We passed by a shop called Maasai Mara and couldn’t resist snapping a photo.
After lunch in the Old Town, we were drawn to the waterfront with stunning views of the harbor and the sparkling sea. There weren’t many people around and the children raced down the promenade as if they were on rocket ships racing to the moon. To the children’s delight, we stumbled upon a playground facing the sea. Their excitement and energy made the kids immune to the chilly sea breeze. They swung on the swings and slid down the slides.
They spent most of the time engrossed in a game where they pretended to be Greek soldiers. AY was the duplicitous leader of the battalion and simultaneously its enemy. DY was a brave soldier who would become the hero of the battle with the assistance of EY, the junior soldier. I was the West Wind that acted as a foil to AY’s deception, with the power to thwart her attacks and protect her victims.
We continued walking on a stone path along the edge of the sea. We were met with a fence and a “do not enter” sign. We saw several locals pay no attention to the sign and go right through the fence. We hesitated for a moment and then decided to follow their lead. We were curious where the path led. We later found out that the path we were following is called the Arvanitia Promenade, a popular path for locals to stroll and enjoy the ocean views.
The stone path was carved into the rocky face of the natural terrain that descended into the shimmering sea. The wind blew us past designated swimming spots, probably popular in the warmer months. We walked faster as we came across unexpected vertical growths of ferocious-looking prickly pear plants that had the appearance like they were advancing upon us with intent to harm.
We continued walking and came upon Arvanitia beach where there were a few locals swimming in the sea. We went down to explore the pebble beach. Although it was far too cold for me to even consider it, RY spontaneously decided he wanted to go in for a dip. We hadn’t planned for swimming so we didn’t have our swimming suits. No swimming suit, no problem. RY stripped down to his underwear and without a moment’s hesitation, bravely walked into the not-so-calm waters.
Inspired by his son, Leo decided to do the same. He also stripped down to his underwear and walked into the water. It was glorious watching father and son doing something so spontaneous. They swam into the sea and we could see their heads bobbing in the water along with the rhythm of the tide.
The rest of us stayed on the beach, playing in the rocks at the edge of the water. As the sun went down, the brave swimmers emerged from the sea and dried themselves off with a tiny travel towel that Leo always carries in his backpack. Leo and RY looked ebullient and ready to take on anything.
When I was younger, I was happiest when I felt wild and free, untethered to expectations and unbothered by convention. Since I became a mother, happiness is when my kids are playing, exploring, growing, wild and free.
The Summer Day
Who made the world?
Who made the swan, and the black bear?
Who made the grasshopper?
This grasshopper, I mean—
the one who has flung herself out of the grass,
the one who is eating sugar out of my hand,
who is moving her jaws back and forth instead of up and down—
who is gazing around with her enormous and complicated eyes.
Now she lifts her pale forearms and thoroughly washes her face.
Now she snaps her wings open, and floats away.
I don’t know exactly what a prayer is.
I do know how to pay attention, how to fall down
into the grass, how to kneel down in the grass,
how to be idle and blessed, how to stroll through the fields,
which is what I have been doing all day.
Tell me, what else should I have done?
Doesn’t everything die at last, and too soon?
Tell me, what is it you plan to do
with your one wild and precious life?
– Mary Oliver
