We were lucky to get in touch with a Maasai guide named David when we arrived in the Enonkishu Conservancy. David dresses in traditional Maasai clothing when he is in the Mara, usually the traditional Maasai red shuka cloth that is draped over his body in layers. When it is hot, he begins to take the layers off one by one until he is left with the inner-most layer that is a one-piece knee-length garment. Once the children noticed that there was a “Made in China” print on one of his shuka cloths. They pointed it out to him and he just chuckled and said, “Yeah, everything is made in China nowadays.” David carries a traditional Maasai sword tied to his waist and a Maasai club that the kids love to carry. During our bush walk, they fought over holding it so much that I had to put on a timer so each could get an equal amount of time wielding his club. David owns a rugged land cruiser with a pop-up top. The glass windows can be removed so during game drives, we can see the animals clearly and without barriers.
David has been taking us around since we arrived in the Enonkishu Conservancy. He is from the area and is a wealth of knowledge and experience. He has provided us with tremendous information regarding the wildlife, flora and fauna of the area as well as insight into the Maasai culture. Much of my understanding comes directly from David as well as from the various readings, research and personal encounters we have had with the local people. Any errors or omissions are due to my misinterpretation or misunderstanding.
The Enonkishu Conservancy is located in the greater Masai Mara area. It is one of the newer and northernmost conservancies. Unlike the Mara North Conservancy, Enonkishu does not directly border the Masai Mara National Reserve. To reach the Oloololo Gate of the Mara Triangle, it is approximately a 2-hour drive and it is necessary to traverse other conservancies such as Ol Choro, Lemek and Mara North to reach the National Reserve.
Enonkishu’s distance from the Masai Mara National Reserve has no impact on the quality of the game viewing. In fact, the game viewing experience in the conservancies, including Enonkishu, is often considered superior and more intimate than in the National Reserve because there is a lower density of tourists. The land between the Masai Mara National reserve and the conservancies are contiguous, meaning there are no barriers on the land itself and the animals are free to roam wherever they choose.
It was fascinating to learn about the model of “conservancy” and its aim to satisfy each of the stakeholders by providing a way to both monetize and preserve the precious natural ecosystem of the Masai Mara in a sustainable way.
After the Masai Mara National Reserve was created in 1948, there were still vast areas of the ecosystem outside of the national reserve that remained collectively owned by the Maasai tribes for settlements and grazing in the traditional way. However, there was no way for the Maasai people to benefit from the tourism income generated by the wildlife and land.
The conservancy model allows for the Maasai to monetize their natural resource, directly receiving a guaranteed monthly income, while maintaining aspects of their traditional way of life. Instead of collective Maasai ownership of the lands, under the conservancy model, the land in the conservancy is divided into several hundred family plots with the head of the family as the owner with ownership rights legally passing from father to son. The conservancy then leases the land from the owners for wildlife tourism. In exchange, the Maasai villages are relocated to the outskirts of the conservancy. In some conservancies, including Enonkishu, the number of cattle owned by each family is limited and grazing is allowed only according to an agreed upon grazing management plan which may require cattle management to be undertaken by the conservancy, and no longer by individual families.
For the wildlife and land, the conservancy model offers a more harmonious relationship and sustainable way of conservation. In traditional Maasai culture, livelihood depends on cattle. The wild animals that threaten the safety of the herd, such as lions and other predators, or of the village, such as elephants, might be killed. Under the conservancy, the villages have been moved to the edges of the conservancy. If there is any issue with wild animals, the Maasai need only call the conservancy who have a team of rangers who are able to deal with the wild animals without harming them.
In the past, cattle grazing without management, also damaged the vegetation of the savannah. The herders would follow the cattle wherever they wandered, damaging certain areas with over-grazing and sometimes coming into conflict with wild animals. Under the conservancy, the grazing is managed on a rotational plan that gives the grass in each area to regenerate and grow in a healthy way. Under the managed grazing method, wild animal encounters are less common.
According to all of the local people that we encountered and chatted with about the conservancy model, the conservancy plan is a resounding success. The main reason given is because of the direct payments they receive each month. Prior to the introduction of conservancies, there were very few opportunities for the Maasai to earn money. Their traditional way of life was not money-based, rather wealth was accumulated and represented in heads of cattle.
There are obvious sacrifices that have been made in terms of preserving a traditional culture. However, the Maasai are not insulated from the demands of a modernizing country. In order to survive, the Maasai need to navigate the economic ecosystem, not only the wildlife ecosystem, so they can create better lives for future generations. It seems the conservancy model is helping them to do this.
The Naretoi Estate is a part of the Enonkishu Conservancy and from what I could understand, was originally a large-scale commercial wheat farm. The owner of the farm was one of the original founders of the Enonkishu Conservancy. Upon creation of the conservancy, he began a “rewilding” project and with this vision in mind, subdivided the land into about 40 plots of 5-acres each.
This is how Mara Moja came to be. And this is how the surrounding Enonkishu Conservancy transformed into the magical place that it is today.
During our stay in the Enonkishu Conservancy, every drive outside of the home with David was in essence, a safari. Some highlights include observing a cheetah and her cubs on the first morning in Enonkishu, a herd of elephants strolling through the savanna, a pride of lions resting in the bushes after a big meal and countless hippos, crocodiles, impala, zebras, giraffes, Thompson gazelles and many other animals throughout the bush.
David took us on a bush walk where we learned to identify the footprints and droppings of different animals. We were lucky to have access to his vast knowledge of animals, big and small. He showed us termite mounds, observed dung beetles busy at work and followed ant colonies. He identified birds and revealed to us nests in trees. He taught us the Latin, Maa and common names of different vegetation, that are honestly impossible for me to remember. He showed us a bush (Salvadora persica) that the Maasai use to make natural toothbrushes. This is the only time I saw David use his Maasai sword and the children were thrilled when he pulled the sword from its sheath and used it to hack off some branches and fashion sticks that he showed us how to use. He showed us how to chew it until it turned into a little brush that could be used to clean the teeth. The taste was bitter and spicy.
One evening, David took us on a night safari. Steven accompanied us so we could have an extra pair of eyes and use his giant flashlight. Under cover of darkness, we drove through Enonkishu and discovered nocturnal animals that could not be seen during the day. We saw several white mongooses, spring hares that David said young Maasai boys kill for sport, hippos that emerged from the water to feed all night, giraffes and elephants that were out for a stroll and zebra and impala that huddled together for safety. David was on the look-out for lions or leopards but they did not seem to want to be found that night.
